Kolkata Capsule

I was spending two weeks in Kolkata and had to take my father for a post surgery check up before heading out of the city for a weekend trip to Taki. With an enthusiastic thumbs up from the doctor , we were all set to drive to Taki - a sleepy little village on the banks of the river Icchamati, a few hours away from the city. I had cajoled my parents, aunt and cousin for the trip which I thought would be a welcome change from the humdrum of our daily lives. Bordering the two nations of India and Bangladesh , Taki was once home to the phenomenally wealthy Zamindars or landlords of Bengal. While now mostly in ruins , it offers a glimpse into the long bygone era. We left Kolkata in the morning and soon reached the highway. The expected 2 hours drive turned into a longer one thanks to a stranded truck which blocked access and we had to take a longer detour to reach the Sonar Bangla resort. Situated right on the banks of Icchamati , its a pristine getaway - all my cajoling for a weekend trip bore fruit as I saw all of them beaming at the sight of the clear blue skies and the river flowing through , despite the sweltering heat. We quickly freshened up and spend time on the river bank before returning back to our rooms for a sumptous lunch and reserving a boat for a tour of the river in the afternoon. The river tour was definitely the highlight of the trip  - separating the borders of India and Bangladesh , the gushing river is lined with lush greenery on both sides of the river bank. One can also see the river branching into tributaries - one heading into Bangladesh and the other heading into Sunderbans. During the Durga Puja , idols from both the countries glide on boats to the centre of this river , where they are immersed together. After the boatride , we spent the evening over tea and adda and retired to our rooms after dinner and a walk in the resort property.  We left for Kolkata back the next morning with a bunch of fond memories.

For the remaining time in Kolkata , the Bangalorean in me was holed up inside our home, wary of stepping out in the sultry Kolkata heat , until a bout of rainshowers brought down the temperatures. I headed out for a run one early morning and enjoyed the lush greenery along the running route at Rabindra Sarovar lake. I decided to head out to explore one of the oldest heritage buildings in Kolkata on Strand Road - Metcalfe Hall. Named after Charles Metcalfe , the then Governor General of India , the building is an actual replica of the Towers of  Winds in Athens, Greece and faces the Hooghly river. It also houses a unique museum called Ami Kolkata ( I am Calcutta) which displays the vibrant artistic , literary and multi cultural heritage of the city which has thrived across the years.It was a visual treat to walk through the galleries and a reminder to the rich history and culture that the city holds within itself.

My research on the internet also revealed other interesting architectures in the vicinity including two of the oldest synagogues and an Armenian church. I hailed a cab back home just in time before it started pouring , but adequately pleased with my explorations and the possibility of creating my own walking tour around Strand Road the next time I am visiting home. See you around Kolkata!

A Lockdown Escape

 

  We stood in front of the Kevada Masjid , silhoutted against the backdrop of the afternoon sun. The vast expanse in front of the mosque was deserted , there were no other tourists except for the three of us and the guards at the fairly well maintained ASI site. Another one of the hidden gems at the Champaner-Pavgadh UNESCO world heritage site, apart from being another brilliant example of Indo Islamic architecture , the mosque is also famous for it's Roman styled cenotaph. The three of us were up in glee , the excursion from the main route to find this hidden mosque was proving to be worth it. Champaner is a treasure trove, especially if you love history and the sheer wonder of discovering stories of the forgotten past waiting to be unlocked at these offbeat architectural wonders.

Kevada Masjid was a detour from the main road where we had visited the Jami Masjid earlier. Dating back to the 15th century , the Jami Masjid is a gigantic structure with two imposing minars on either side of the central entrance to the prayer hall. Built by Sultan Begada in 1509 , it is a beautiful example of Hindu , Jain and Islamic workmanship and architecture.

We climbed up the steps to the mosque to the entrance , the erstwhile dome destroyed in the earthquake opens up the sky above. We sat there for sometime breathing in the unique latticework and the serenity of the place.

The shadows through the hallways hide stories of a bygone era. It is said that Champaner was founded in the eight century by King Vanraj Chavda. According to historians, along with neighbouring Pavagadh, it formed an important buffer between Gujarat and Mandu in Malwa (now Madhya Pradesh). The Chauhan Rajputs, who conquered the area around 1300 AD, ruled here for nearly two centuries. Although several Gujarat Sultans tried to capture Pavagadh, it was finally Mahmud Begda who managed to capture it, made it his capital and patronised a spate of constructions. Conquered by the Mughals , the region slowly lost it’s importance and faded away.  Jami Masjid is said to have served as a model for later mosque architecture in India and serves as the perfect blend of Hindu , Jain and Islamic architecture as seen across Champaner which also earned this site it’s World Heritage Status. 

Our first stop at Champaner was the Shahi Masjid which was a private mosque for the royal family. The outer walls feature stone jharokhas with perforated latticework. The sprawling garden laid out by Persian landscapists outside the mosque is now in ruins but the remnants of water channels can still be seen.

Our plan to visit Vadodara over the weekend was quite impulsive like most good weekend trips. The fatigue of staying locked up in our homes needed a release and after the ebbing of the second wave , late November post Diwali was a good time to travel. After going through all weekend options, (we had struck off  MH and Kerala from our list) , M and I settled for Vadodara. Neither of us had been to Gujarat ,  the morning 1 hour flight from Bangalore was conveniently timed and I had a hotel voucher waiting to expire at year end. Between the most renowned Lakshmi Vilas Palace in Vadodara , a few other destinations in the city and Champaner-Pavgadh which was an hour drive away, it was perfectly placed to explore over a  three day weekend.  The night before our flight , M’s hubby, S, started experiencing travel pangs and sheepishly asked to be included in our girls’ trip. We agreed to take him along on the condition of carrying extra baggage for our shopping excursions from Vadodara.

M and I decided to explore some of the lesser known destinations in the city the day we landed. S was reaching the day after and would join us directly at Champaner-Pavgadh. We kept the Lakshmi Vilas in Palace in our itinerary for the last day as our flight was in the evening and the morning would leave us enough time to explore what is still the abode of the royal Gaekwad family of Vadodara and one of the most magnificent palaces in India.

The Maharaj Sayaji Rao ( MS Rao) university at Vadodara is an unlikely stop for a tourist but the historical building which houses the faculty of arts is a unique confluence of Indian and Byzantine architectural styles. The university built upon 275 acres of land has a sprawling campus and it took us few rounds of autorickshaw rides to locate the main building which is also a heritage site. Unfortunately for us , the building was under going renovation and we could only do a brief tour from outside. Photography was also not being allowed ( for renovation purposes ?) but I managed to get a few clicks before one of the guards asked me to put my camera away.

Our other stop that day was the Hazira Maqbara which houses the tomb of Qutubuddin Muhammad Khan the tutor of Emperor Akbar's son; and his own son Naurang Khan- an influential administrator of Emperor Akbar's dynasty. Displaying typical Mughal architecture styles with ostentatious arches and octagonal platforms, the real graves are inside an underground chamber while the replicas are in the tomb. Located inside a planned Persian Garden , the tomb is a monumental octagonal structure. Quietly tucked away in a corner of the city , sitting around in the tomb is a serene experience.  I could imagine early mornings in the tomb would be a divine experience with the sunlight filtering in through the jalis which adorn the arched openings.

Vaodadara’s most renowned attraction is the Lakshmi Vilas Palace (LVP) which is still the residence of the royal Gaekwad family. The largest private residence built till date , LVP is four times the size of Buckingham Palace. Built in the Indo Saracenic architectural style, it’s elaborate interiors boast well maintained mosaics , chandeliers ,artworks and a highly impressive collection of weaponry and art. Paintings by the famous artist , Raja Ravi Verma who was specially commissioned by the then Maharaja of Baroda adorn the palace. The palace also houses an expansive golf course which is now open to the public. Another notable building in the premises is the Maharaja Fateh Singh museum which was earlier a school constructed for the royal family and now houses a large number of artworks by Raja Ravi Verma as well as other renowned European artists. The audio assisted guide almost transports one across time as you walk through the hallways of the palace and listen to the tales of an era gone by.

After spending a relaxed few hours touring the Palace , we grabbed some amazing misal pav for lunch (our other Gujrati food experience was a sumptuous Thali the night before). It was time to head back home but the trip was our first quick glimpse into Gujarat’s rich heritage . Maybe we would come back sometime to discover more of it’s known or lesser known facets armed with more time to carry back our memories! (also a bigger shopping bag , the beautiful Ajrakh and Gujrati handicrafts left us spellbound and was dumped on poor S to lug back home :-)).

Of trains , winter holidays and running

The sunlight streamed through the half drawn curtains had me awake. The train was slowing down as a station approached. I craned my neck to see but could hardly make out which station it was. A hawker selling tea entered the compartment to the utter joy of all the passengers who quickly swarmed around him.We Indians love our tea, and there is something heavenly about that tiny cup of hot tea served when you are half snuggled inside that blanket on the train berth. Train journeys were always an integral part of my holidays. I used to eagerly wait for the summer vacations where we would take the train to my grandmom's town to spend holidays with my cousins. Tickets those days were booked way in advance , tiny rectangular cardboard cutouts. I especially loved overnight journeys - the joy of climbing up to an upper berth and falling asleep to the rhythmic jostling of the train. I love train journeys to this day. But the general paucity when it comes to time and distances traveled have us giving in to flights most of the time.

Holidays are also about meeting cousins,aunts,uncles - the whole retinue of an extended Bong family. Invitations for lunch, dinner , breakfast are not to be ignored. And never underestimate the emotional cost of each tiny bit of morsel put on your plate.The whole hierarchy of the family tree can be threatened by your mere refusal to devour the last piece of fish preserved just for you. Unfortunately for me, a Bong who has also chosen the sadistic world of running , the conflict is eternal. From dragging the father along for a 90 minute early ( I mean really early) morning walk at the nearest lake while I run to the amused look on the face of the man selling coconut water on realizing that a Bong woman chose to spend her early morning hours running , the struggle between a Bong coming back home to Kolkata and a runner just trying to keep up her routine is real. Kolkata and running are not really friends - as a fellow runner and friend puts it:). But like a lot of conflicting identities which sink into our personalities ( tell me if you have been able to balance out yours because I never have) , this too will find it's own little space. Till then , I will enjoy slurping the last bit of the soft, mushy rosogolla (we also have the GI now, woot woot!) and the very confused look of the onlooker as I whizz past in my running shoes.

Of Media and content

The subcontinent got it's first joint Nobel Peace winners at a time when mortars and bullets are flying across the borders. While Ms Malala Yousafzai was definitely the more well known personality,I, like several others, had not heard of Kailash Satyarthi till the news broke.It probably also is a reflection of the media  today which spends an inordinate amount of energy on trivia and rantings of the political class and what it thinks is 'news'. A couple of weeks back TOI carried an article on Indo-China diplomatic relations. Accompanying the article was a poster of the Deepika Padukone starrer Chandni Chowk to China. Erm. I never got around to reading it. On a lighter note, I remember spotting this at one of the Army camps on the road somewhere in Ladakh. Political diplomacy, anyone?

India's Mangalyaan Mars Orbiter Spacecraft created a remarkable feat in it's own right, proof that a trip to Mars doesn't have to break the bank.  At $72 million, MOM costs just a fraction of NASA's $670 million Maven, and $2 billion Curiosity Rover. The leading US daily,
NY times,carried an editorial cartoon called"India's budget mission to Mars" , which it later apologised for.  Whether meant to be funny or ironic,  the racial stereotyping was more than apparent.








The festival season just went by , belated wishes for Bijoya and Eid. Thankfully, the past couple of festive days in Bangalore have been immune to the havoc that the rains have been creating in the city, making driving around an adventure in itself. And seems nothing short of good fortune to have been spared from Hudhud (someone please explain the logic of cyclone nomenclature, apparently this one is named after a bird).Hopefully, Diwali would be a peaceful one, wishes for a safe and happy Diwali!

A happy independence day

The independence day weekend just went by. In his maiden independence day speech,the new PM announced the scrapping of the 64 year old Nehruvian Planning Commission with a new think tank entity. Amidst serious debates on the new think tank panel , my only thought was economics students would now probably be spared the horror of going through archaic histories of the 5 year plans. My most memorable independence day was the Chamser Kangri adventure in Ladakh a few years back when we were supposed to  summit on the 15th but had  to turn back because of bad weather.Only reminds me of how long it has been since I put on my trekking boots last :-).

Closer home , the three day weekend holiday turned out to be a great chance to catch up with theatre. With parents in town , we went to watch Gasha - a play in Hindi set against the backdrop of the Kashmir imroglio and the tale of a fractured friendship between two boys , a Kashmiri Pundit and a Kashmiri Muslim. The play is the third and final part of the Kashmir Trilogy, the first two parts being Rizwaan (2010, First Festival of Contemporary Indian Theatre in Paris)  and Djinns of Eidgah (Royal Court Theatre, London) but can be viewed independent of the two parts. The narrative straddles swiftly between the past and the present to weave the tale of the two boys but  never loses rythm. It's also surprisingly hilarious for a backdrop which couldn't be more serious and  keeps the audience breaking into peals of laughter. A lovely  evening spent at Jagriti (which now also sells cutting chai and samosa) followed by a Sunday lunch inspired by the Bongmom cookbook cuisine. The mom okayed it (yippee!), a perfect end to the weekend holiday:-).

The world cup is over , now what?

The FIFA world cup is finally over. Which means room for "other than soccer" topics of conversation over lunch, coffee and dinner (did people notice the Wimbledon just whisked by?). Not a huge soccer fan myself but it is difficult to stay immune to the hoopla and the passion around what probably is the greatest sporting spectacle in the world. My most vivid image of the soccer world cup is Italy winning the finals in 2006. I happened to be in Milan during the world cup and was lucky enough to witness the grand victory of a soccer obsessed nation. Notwithstanding the FIFA spectacle, Italy remains one of my most favorite destinations in the world.



                         


Speaking of favorite destinations, I managed to visit Goa thrice in less than a year. Between taking my parents to South Goa just after monsoons to holidaying with an old friend leaving for Singapore, Goa manages to offer everything from the solitude of it's remote beaches to the epitome of letting your hair down and not caring about the world. My friend also introduced me to this series of travel books written by Fiona Caufield. Called the 'Love' series, Fiona writes about the most offbeat destinations to be discovered in a place. We discovered an old Portugese villa serving traditional Portugese fare for dinner (also the owner chats up with you and may even be cajoled to play the guitar. Which he did for us. Two women can be insistent enough).

The monsoons are here. Thankfully Bangalore weather has gone back to being 'Bangalore' weather again. If you know what I mean. Between my early morning tennis classes and generally being violently lazy, I try and manage to pick up a cue on Bong cuisine from here. I love the way she writes and her general enthusiasm for food. Plus inspiring an audience like me , who given a chance would stick to the luxuries of a cook dishing out the fare for you. Hopefully, I will surprise my 'Bong mom' when she comes visiting next time :-).

Eat Drink Replay

'One of the very nicest things about life is the way we must regularly stop whatever it is we are doing and devote our attention to eating' - Luciano Pavarotti and William Wright, Pavarotti, My Own Story

And so I did. A series of weekends spent over..well, food! From brewpubs to midnight dinners. A short recollection of my new epicurean discoveries in Bangalore:


Toit: The long pending photo club lunch at Toit , Indiranagar. Bengaluru's apna microbrewery.Quirky beer names. Mine was called Tintin. For the more adventurous. there is a spicy beer ! Food is good too, especially starters. My pasta in pesto sauce was a little too cheesy to finish though. Perfect for a lazy Saturday lunch. I wish they had a place to crash after the beer and the food though..yawwwwn!


Citrus, The Leela: A weekend buffet lunch with a dear old friend visiting Bangalore. You may find it difficult to tear yourselves away from starters and salad section to the main course. Incredible selection of cheese. Absolutely not to miss, the fresh baked thin crust pizzas. And heavenly desserts!


Jamavar, The Leela: An ambience to die for. I think. Wouldn't matter if the food was not good enough:-). Not that it wasn't. We stuck to a simple dinner of Appam and Pachakari stew after our weekend eatathon. Worth a revisit simply for the ambience. And to do better justice to the menu:-)


French Loaf: One breakfast place with ample choice of fresh breads and vegetarian fare for breakfast , apart from the  standard English breakfast that a couple of other places in the same vicinity like The Hole in the Wall in  offer. My toast and herb omlette was quite ordinary, but I loved my friend's onion mushroom sandwich. That's some compliment for vegetarian fare!


Biso,Citrus Hotel: A saviour if you are working late and want to pop across the street from work to catch up on a midnight dinner. Limited menu but my chicken alfredo pasta was not too bad. There is a fair Indian spread for the midnight dinner. Also serves beer. Avoid the steaks. Oh, and for desserts, try the Bull's eye:-)


To more epicurean pleasures, Bon Apetit!